May 1, 2011 § 1 Comment
My pics will be limited this week since I couldn’t really leave my camera on the beach but just finished my 2nd lesson today. Since fri got postponed because of wind & waves my husband got to join me which was a lot of fun. I went back out with my instructor, Kim (pictured left). It was much easier paddling out today but the waves closed out pretty quick so still no standing for me…yet.
I’m not going lie that I obviously wanted to be able to stand up this week, but to be honest it was just a lot of fun being out in the ocean and seeing what it feels like to catch a wave. I didn’t really care by the end that I didn’t fully get up. It was a gorgeous Sunday. It felt good to be in the water and exhausted in that fun kind of way. Kim was a great instructor and I recommend her if you’re in town.
This week I was thinking a lot about surfing as a sport vs surfing as a culture. Lately I’ve wanted to find something to do that gets me outside but that doesn’t feel like I’m just exercising to exercise. I really just can’t get into that. I played tennis growing up as a kid and there was a time I loved it because it was about beautiful south carolina evenings, hanging out with the neighborhood friends and maybe even having a 14 year old summer romance…or two. It was when tennis just became about competition that I lost my heart for it. I was actually much better at it when I was just having fun vs worrying about perfecting it too much.
I think about how many cool people I’ve met in Boulder through some of the weeks I’ve done so far and this week is leaving me with one regret from when I lived in LA. I wish I had gotten to know a fun group of people to hang out with on the weekends and go surfing with. It was a missed opportunity for sure, especially living 2 blocks off the beach at the time.
Surfing is not the kind of thing you’re going to pick up in 2 days, but so fun to try out regardless. I wish I had another week here to keep at it. I could totally see falling in love with it.
skateboarding next???? Way to go Darcie on the surfing.